Travelogue
Richard Sorge - The Spy from Baku - 7 October 2020
Richard Sorge had one of the greatest impacts on the outcome of World War Two of any individual, yet most people have never heard of him. He was not a politician or a diplomat, he didn’t command troops, fly planes, captain battleships or even fire a gun, and he never fought in any of the battles. What he had was access to key inside information at critical times. He caused entire armies to move from one part of the world to another which saved the Soviet Union from disaster in 1941 in the bloody battles outside Moscow and enabled Stalin’s eventual victory in 1945, thereby reshaping modern Europe. He was a spy but also shared many of the fundamental traits of a high-class conman: personable, well dressed, amiable, well mannered, good looking, attractive to women and utterly without conscious or scruples. His penetration of the German embassy in Tokyo also made him the most highly placed Soviet agent in the world at the time. Sorge (“Sor-gei”) was born in Tsarist Russia of a German father and a Russian mother. He grew up in Berlin in comfortable middle-class surroundings. He became possibly the only person in history to have been a card-carrying member of both the German Nazi Party and the Soviet Communist Party at the same time. The espionage ring he created and ran for nine years in Tokyo, when no Russian agent had ever succeeded in settling in Tokyo, was the greatest spy ring of the age. He had previously run another spy ring in Shanghai, then the centre of
Milford Sound - 2 September 2020
Milford Sound lies in Southwest New Zealand in the Fiordland National Park, the largest and fourth oldest of the country’s 13 national parks, the fifth largest park of its kind in the world and part of the Te Wāhipounamu (Greenstone) World Heritage Site. It has been judged the world's top travel destination in an international survey, and
Australia versus North Korea in Phnom Penh 1965 - 1 July 2020
In 1965 Cambodians witnessed one of the more unusual footballing events; World Cup playoffs on home soil not involving their own country. The two matches between Australia and North Korea were played in Cambodia as neither country had diplomatic relations with each other and Cambodia was the only country with diplomatic relations with both
François Bizot's 'The Gate' and the Spirits of the Dead - 3 June 2020
I had never read François Bizot’s seminal book ‘The Gate’ but had always seen it for sale. Then a friend gave me a copy. It is said it should be numbered among the great post-Second World-War memoirs of incarceration and is noted for ‘its intense dignity, by its unexpected attention to beauty, and by a discretion which never shades into
Flying High with the Bolivian Air Force - 6 May 2020
Travelling in Bolivia is a challenge of world-renown, one of those destinations your mother warned you about. The roads are rough, few are paved. The terrain is intimidating with high mountains and deep gorges best described as lethal. Transport infrastructure is rudimentary or was when I went in 1991, especially air travel. Safety leaves much
Aeroflot Skies - 4 April 2020
Back in the day in the early 1990s, the cheapest way to fly from Europe to Asia was on Eastern bloc airlines. Polish Airlines (Polskie Linie Lotnicze-LOT)) was one option, while Aeroflot was another. After the Berlin Wall came down LOT, previously known as Aerolot and one of the oldest airlines in operation, began moving back to using Western
Poipet - In a Galaxy, Far, Far, Away - 25 February 2020
The border crossing between Aranyaprathet in Thailand and Poipet, or Krong Poi Pet, in Cambodia is marked by a dying waterway, the Nam Sai, choked and putrefied with the detritus of modern life. The Nam Sai (which ironically means “clear stock” as in soup, in Thai) roughly marks the border. In some places it is the border, while in others it
Borderlands - Aranyaprathet and Poipet - 27 January 2020
In the early 2000s I made two trips into Cambodia by road from Thailand. These were my first ever visits to the country. The route I took was the same many visitors took back then, and many still do, from Aranyaprathet and Poipet, though much has changed in terms of infrastructure. I’ve heard it said peoples’ impressions of Cambodia are
Hotel Cambodiana on the River Mekong - 22 December 2019
One of my favourite pastimes in Phnom Penh is sitting poolside at the Hotel Cambodiana watching the river traffic go by. Norodom Sihanouk came up with an idea for the hotel and even contributed early drawings for bungalows, before it morphed into a full-blown hotel, then one of the biggest in town. It was built, but not finished, during the