Travelogue
The Royal Tombs of Huế in the Heartbeat of Vietnam - 23 April 2023
Vietnam is a country with a fascinating history boasting a host of attractions. Midway along the country’s distinctive s-bend coastline is the former imperial capital of Hue where you get both history and wonderful sights. A few years ago, I made my first visit there and found it a welcome stop on the journey through Vietnam away from the hustle of the country’s bigger cities. The city’s oldest ruins go back 1600 years to when it was the capital of the Kingdom of Lap Am. Later it was part of the Kingdom of Champa before being annexed by the Nguyễn dynasty before it too was absorbed by France to become part of the Protectorate of Annam, and later part of the Republic of Vietnam. Hue, population almost 300,000 has been called the heartbeat of Vietnam. Its main attractions are the tombs of the Nguyen emperors, several notable pagodas and the remains of the ancient citadel. The old town is located by the Perfume River (Song Huong) around the massive citadel. In 1993, UNESCO designated the complex of monuments in Hue a World Heritage site. Prior to this, between 1975 and 1990, the Vietnamese government was in danger of pulling many of the “feudal” Nguyen relics down, or at least letting them rot, as politically incorrect symbols of a corrupt past. Hue is way more laid back than either Ha Noi or Sai Gon. Cyclo riders are a constant irritation. Their use as a bona fida means of hired transport has been largely relegated to the novel. Cyclists are still commonly
João Saldanha - Football and Politics in Brazil - 25 March 2023
Brazil won the World Cup in 1970 with a team that is widely regarded as the best side ever to lift the Jules Rimet Trophy. The national team in 1970 had two managers: João Saldanha followed by Mário Zagallo, the latter a protégé of the former, both of whom enjoyed a long association with Botafogo FC. Saldanha had been a player, coach, sporting
Kratie on the Mekong - 21 January 2023
I recently took a bus from Phnom Penh to the provincial town of Kratie or Krong Kracheh, northeast of the Cambodian capital on the banks of the Mekong River, a journey of about 250kms by road. Cambodia is one of the few countries I’ve travelled in where road travel is often easier, faster, and more comfortable on dirt roads than on sealed ones
Italy in Mexico, World Cup 1970 - 10 December 2022
The Italians arrived in Mexico in 1970 as European champions having eventually beaten Yugoslavia 2-0 on home soil two years earlier, and after winning the semi-final against the Soviet Union by the toss of a coin. Their playing ranks included two of the best attacking midfield players in Europe in Sandro Mazzola and Gianni Rivera, rivals from
Working in a Gold Mine in a Desert - 21 August 2022
I once worked in a gold mine in the middle of an Australian desert. To get there I flew to Adelaide from overseas with the intention of hitchhiking to Kalgoorlie, a mining town in Western Australia and base for many of the operators working in the mines that drive much of that state’s economy. I had done lots of hitchhiking before all around the
Kalgoorlie - Didyabringabeer - 29 June 2022
Once upon a time way out west, I went to Kalgoorlie by bus to work. Later I went back by rail for a visit. The town of about 30,000 is an isolated stop on the line across Western Australia where one stretch of railway runs completely straight for 478km – the longest straight stretch of rail line anywhere in the world. Kal’ to the locals, is over
Port Arthur and the Vandemonians of Tasmania - 28 May 2022
Tasmania was once called Van Diemen’s Land and is the world’s 26th largest island and Australia’s least populated state. From 1803 Britain settled the island as a penal colony, and almost wiped out the indigenous population in the process. Today Tasmania, or “Tassie” to use the colloquialism, is the most Anglophile Australian state, also having
The Great Brazilians Part 3 – Brito, Gérson, and Carlos Alberto - 30 April 2022
Back in the day before live television and videos, before satellites and the internet, before downloads and smartphones, growing up a sports fan was different. You read about it, you watched it live at the match if able, or some saw it on film at the movies or delayed on television at first in black and white, or you read about it and you
The Great Brazilians Part 2 - Tostão, Clodoaldo, Everaldo, and Wilson Piazza - 26 March 2022
Joy in football it has been said does not come from winning, but from being entertained, and from witnessing something special for at the heart of football’s great power of seduction is that there are certain sensations that are eternal. People often say that results are paramount and that ten years down the line, the only thing which will be
